Issue 48 | 5 Minutes with Tetsuya and Chiaki Watanabe, Cucina Italiana Santo
Interview by Jacinta Sonja / Photos: Liam Larnach
Meet Tetsuya and Chiaki Watanabe, the dynamic husband and wife team behind Cucina Italiana Santo (or “Santo” as it’s affectionately known). Tetsuya and Chiaki Watanabe share their journey from Niigata and Tokyo to Niseko, where they now run their restaurant. They also gave us an insight into the essence of Santo’s cuisine, and the joy of creating connections through food.
Can you share the story of how Cucina Italiana Santo came to be and what inspired you to open an Italian restaurant in Niseko?
Tetsuya Watanabe (TW): I was born in Niigata. I went to Tokyo to work as a chef at a restaurant, it was a dream for me to work in a big city. After 10 years of working at this restaurant, I came to Niseko and opened my first restaurant “Swell” in Kutchan.
Chiaki Watanabe (CW): I’m originally from Tokyo. I loved to travel, and I wanted to see the world. I spent a few years travelling and working in different parts of the world. I came to Niseko, fell in love with the place and decided to stay. And in Niseko, I met him [Tetsuya Watanabe].
What made you move to this new location in Kabayama?
TW: After a couple of years in Kutchan, we decided to move our restaurant to this new location, and we renamed it “Cucina Italiana Santo”. I wanted to be closer to nature and be immersed in the natural environment. We celebrate our first anniversary in this new space on the 12th of December this year.
Where did you get your love of cooking from?
TW: My mum loved to cook and I used to watch her cook. When I got older, I wanted to help my mum with her duties and thought that being a chef would help me do that. I also wanted to show her that I’ve grown up in a way that she could understand.
How did you come to like Italian food?
TW: In Italian cooking, there is very little wastage, everything is used. I came to be an Italian chef by chance while working in Tokyo, and I gradually grew to love Italian cooking. Over the years I became more and more interested in Italian cuisine.
How would you describe the food at Santo? Is it traditional Italian?
TW: The cooking technique is generally Italian, but the menu depends on the seasonal ingredients. I like to highlight the flavours of the food itself – I’d say it is neither Japanese nor Italian, just staying true to the ingredients.
Does your menu change according to the seasons?
CW: Yes, and it always depends on the ingredients – the freshest ingredients he [Tetsuya] can get that very day. Only then, he’d decide the menu and how he’d cook it.
What are some of the signature dishes at Santo?
TW: I’d say everything! [laughter] I love everything – from appetisers, and main dishes to desserts.
What can guests look forward to at Santo this winter?
CW: We’ll have 3 types of course dinners this winter. One of the courses is called “Santo Course” – it’s a course where we’ll pair food and wine. It’ll be our first time offering a menu with wine pairing and we are excited about it.
What is your approach to food?
TW: Hmm... It is more of a feeling, an emotion when it comes to food... it’s hard to put it in words.
We love your wine selections, tell us more about how you select your wines.
CW: Most of our wines are Italian, though we have wines from other countries too. We think that Italian food goes well with Italian wine. Depending on the season, we serve wines from Northern or Southern Italy.
Tell us the story of Sass’al Sole wine from Montecucco in Tuscany that you mentioned on your website.
CW: Yes, it is a special wine that we like. We only have one bottle left (and it’s not for sale). Tetsuya met this lady who was the owner of a vineyard in Toscana, she used to make biodynamic organic wines herself. He liked her philosophy of life and they formed a great friendship. This wine is very special to us, not only because it is delicious, but also because there’s a deep connection with the winemaker. We often select our wines not only based on the quality but also the soul and the connection with the winemaker.
How do you work together as a husband and wife team?
CW: Tetsuya does the cooking, and I do everything else! [laughter]. Tetsuya also plans and orders the food for the menu, and he selects the wine too.
What’s the best part of your job?
TW: Although I don’t speak much English, I love that I can communicate through food. I love our foreign guests’ spontaneous reactions when they like the food. They give the thumbs up and exclaim ”Oishii!”
CW: I enjoy every moment of the service. I love that through the course of the meal, I get to know the guests better and we become friends by the end of the evening.
Tell us about a memorable event at Santo.
TW: Two ladies who came from Hakodate to have lunch at Santo, and we had a guest from America who stayed a night at a place next to the restaurant to dine here. It was very special for us.
Are there any plans or exciting developments on the horizon for Cucina Italiana Santo?
TW: We’ll be launching our house-made pasta sauce soon.
Lastly, how would you describe Santo in a few words?
TW: “Passione vera!”, which means “True passion” in Italian. Passion is the most important thing. It is a feeling that not only guides our approach to the food but also to life.
Thank you Chiaki san and Tetsuya san!
web: cucinaitalianaswell.com tel: 0136-22-3388 instagram: chef_tetsuya
address: 259 Kabayama, Kutchan-cho, Abuta-gun, Hokkaido, Japan